山地车骑行时有异响的分析--转帖

如一

大多数车友在骑行时都会碰到自己的爱车出现令人烦恼的异响，我尝试列举自己这些年骑行时碰到并解决的这类问题。

一、冲山时臀部没离开坐包时遇到路况较差滑行时（脚没有蹬踏），出现咔咔的细响，这问题较为常见，我分析有以下几种可能：

1.坐包和坐杆的夹件没有固定牢固，有虚位，金属件出现松动。
2.坐杆和车架的坐杆夹夹的太松，有些旧车架的坐管通和坐管由于经常使用出现磨损，加大虚位，这时坐管夹更加要上紧。
3.轮组的安装不正确，轮组的轴心的两端未完全顶到车架的U型槽顶端，加上快拆杆上的较松，碰到路况不好或摇车发力时轮组轴心轻微晃动发出响声。
4.头管和腕足在固定时太紧或太松也会在路况差时出现异响。
以上若是都检查没有安装不正确时车依旧还是出现异响，可能是花鼓的轴承或波珠出现暗伤，更严重的可能是车架暗伤，建议返回车店维修保养。

二、山地车爬坡时出现咯咯或咔咔的的异响有以下几种可能：

1.五通处的中轴返松，或安装有问题，建议安装时先洗牙，抹上优质黄油再拧上中轴，由于现车架五通的中轴内牙多数为铝合金的牙口较为脆弱，上中轴时一定要和内牙严丝合缝，否则出现上歪伤牙后整个车架都有可能报废。
2.中轴轴承由于进水进尘及使用较旧出现伤害，有时车友在进行清洁车辆时使用高压气嘴吹尘，直接用气嘴对着BB吹尘，导致BB里面的黄油流失，滚珠出现干磨，导致日后骑行时出现异响。个人觉得外置轴承的BB较为娇气，洗车时坚决不要用水淋它，拿块半湿的棉布擦拭即可，经常骑行的朋友半年左右建议打开中轴保养一下轴承。

3.曲柄没有上紧，哪怕虚位很小都有可能发出令人不愉快的声音。
4.固定牙盘的盘片螺丝没有上紧，建议全部检查一遍螺丝上紧否，上紧后每颗螺丝位滴一滴机油防止螺丝生锈。
5.脚踏问题，
脚踏和曲柄连接处没有上紧，若没有上紧建议拆下脚踏，在脚踏的螺纹处抹上黄油再重新上紧。
脚踏本身出现轴承问题，此时建议更换脚踏，质量好的脚踏可以更换防水轴承。
有些脚踏的防滑护圈是用螺丝固定的，有时那里的螺丝返松也会出现异响。

6.链条的问题：
链条由于平时疏于保养清洗，上面积满污油沙尘，特别是越野后，较大的沙粒会被轮胎带到链条里，这时若再发力蹬踏，会从飞轮及牙盘处传出咯咯的声音。
7.轮组安装问题，如上述第一大项第三小项。

8.碟刹磨碟，需重新调教如下述：
确保手中没有油污，安装碟片螺栓是注意不要手或外力压到碟片，导致碟片变形。
我个人习惯的安装顺序是先将装好碟片的轮组先车架上固定夹好（确保花鼓轴心完全顶住车架或前叉卡槽没有虚位，并左右平衡后再加紧快拆），不然经过冲山后会出现车轮走位偏心，导致碟片磨到来令片，甚至出现危险！轮组固定好后再安装鲍鱼（个人觉得如果先装鲍鱼在装轮组会使来令片被碟片撞到或挂花，甚至野蛮点有将碟片撞变形的可能！）装鲍鱼时有几点值得注意：
（1在未安装鲍鱼前拆开鲍鱼来令片的限位塑料垫片后千万不要扳手刹，不然极易造成来令片粘在一块，严重的甚至造成油室漏油！
（2.前轮安装鲍鱼是注意分辨前叉的鲍鱼安装螺丝孔的类型，螺丝孔分A柱B柱的，鲍鱼上一般都自带装换桥架，个别油刹品牌可能不支持先流行的螺丝预留孔，值得注意此问题！
（3.在安装鲍鱼前要将将整个鲍鱼夹件放到安装位置比较下，主要是看看来令片的位置是否完全能够磨合到碟片，若是不能，就要通过再螺丝预留孔里垫垫圈来调整来令片磨合碟片的位置，做到来令片在最终安装好时能够完全咬合到碟片的有效接触面。我见过好多人碟刹安装好时。碟片超出来令片上顶端2mm以上，导致碟片在车行驶时磨到鲍鱼顶部的小弹**，自己还不知道，响声哪里来的！还有见过有些人来令片位置过低，导致磨到碟片下方的放射状叶片！
（4.在安装鲍鱼是要保证车架是垂直于地面的，不要倾斜，不要靠到墙边来装鲍鱼，这样调出的来令片空隙位是和车架垂直有误差的，当车架倾斜时其实整个钢架处于轻微的扭曲变形，如果是这样安装好鲍鱼时明明看到来令片两边的空隙是一样的，可是车架一扶正又偏了，甚至磨碟啦！（最终安装好的来令片和碟片两边空隙是要求对等的，这样鲍鱼活塞的推进才均等，不会造成以后的碟片变形，产生噪音和刹车性能降低！）

9.后拨没调教好，使得链条和后拨形成角度造成导轮和飞轮磨链，发出噪音。若是完好的后拨可以通过调校变速线，若是后拨变形，上下导轮不在一个平面上，这样光调变速线是没用的，必须找个有经验的人用橡皮锤及包住布的胶钳拗回来。
10.前拨未调校好，出现磨链。
以上这些问题都是我平时遇到并得到解决的问题，欢迎车友继续发言补充及不足处给予指正，谢谢！

sopzf

INSTRUCTION GUIDE
TROUBLESHOOTING BIKE SQUEAKS/CREAKS/NOISES

Bicycles can start to generate squeaks, creaks and noises. Often, these noises are a result of depleted lubrication and/or loose components,
which is caused mostly by using your bike in the manner it was intended. Periodic maintenance, in most cases, can stave off annoying squeaks,
bizarre creaks and strange noises. Sometimes, these conditions (which can sometimes be symptoms) might require more investigation to
uncover its source and apply a fix.
This instruction guide can not only show you what locations are most prone to generating ride-ruining noises, but can also function as a safety
guide of items to check before any ride. It only takes a minute or so to inspect the items shown below. If, after checking all components, you
are still experiencing squeaks, creaks and/or noises, we highly recommend taking your bike into a Specialized Authorized Dealer for further
inspection.

For proper torque specifications, consult the owner’s manual or instruction guide of the specific component. Failure to apply the
proper torque can result in equipment damage, which can result in catastrophic failure and lead to serious injury or death. GET
A TORQUE WRENCH! This is especially true when working with carbon and carbon parts. Consult the components’ manual for
proper torque specifications. With mating components, use the smaller torque value. Never use grease on carbon parts; use
carbon paste instead.

ITEM LOCATION DESCRIPTION/SOLUTION
1 Seat post clamp Specialized single-bolt clamps require a large amount of torque. A torque wrench must be used to achieve this torque setting, otherwise a
loud creaking noise will be heard. Lightly grease all metal-to-metal contact points, especially the bolts on the clamp mechanism.
2 Seat post collar Make sure the seat post collar is properly tightened. For quick-release collars, make sure the bolt is adjusted so that proper tightening force is
applied when the lever is closed. DO NOT USE GREASE on carbon seat posts and/or frames. Use carbon paste instead.
3 Rear shock mounting bolts Properly lubricate the shock bolts. You might have to remove the bolts to thoroughly lubricate them. After removing the bolts, check the DU
bushings to abate any side-to-side movement.
4 Quick-release levers/skewers Check to ensure the quick-release levers on the wheels are properly fastened. There should be ample resistance on the lever when closing
the levers. If not, turn the bolt until a significant amount of force is required to close the lever. Check the quick-release levers before each and
every ride.
5 FSR pivot bolts Consult the FSR frame manual that came with your bicycle for proper torque specifications on the linkage bolts. In most cases, proper
lubrication of these pivot points eliminates creaking issues, with bearing removal unnecessary. (An FSR Toolkit is required to remove/install
FSR pivot bearings. Do not remove them with standard tools.)
6 Chainring bolts Make sure the chainring bolts are properly tightened. They should not turn freely. If they need to be tightened, consult the cranks’ owner’s
manual for proper specifications and tightening order.
7 Stem bolts Stem bolts must be properly tightened. Bolts might also need to be tightened in a particular order, as defined by the manufacturer. For carbon
steerer tubes, it is imperative that proper torque specifications are used when tightening stem bolts. DO NOT USE GREASE on carbon
steerer tubes.
8 Headset Stem and stem cap bolts must be properly tightened to properly secure the headset components. For carbon steerer tubes, exclusive
expander plugs must be used in place of star nuts.
9 Bottom bracket Loose bottom bracket cups can generate a lot of noise, which can reverberate through the entire frameset, making them difficult to diagnose.
Stand on the side of your bike, step on the pedal ,and push down with your foot. It might be easier to hold your bike at a 45-degree angle
away from your body as you’re doing this. Listen (and feel) for any noises or creaks, then tighten to manufacturer’s specifications if necessary.
Lubricate the bottom bracket cups. If creaks/noises still persist after torquing all components to specification, a bottom bracket overhaul may
be necessary.
10 Rear Derailleur & Hanger Bolt Tighten the rear derailleur and hanger bolt. Most rear derailleur/hanger bolts are 5mm hex. Some thru-axle rear derailleurs might require
different tools. Check with the manufacturer for proper torque values and, if required, special tools.
11 Pedals Tighten pedals using a pedal wrench (or hex keys accessed on the inside). Remember, the non-drive side pedal is reverse thread. Check with
your crank manufacturer to see if washers are required between the pedal and crank arm. Lubricate the pedal threads prior to installation.

如一

回复 2# sopzf


    感谢版主的翻译，，使这篇帖子的内容又上了一个高度，，这个完全是国际问题嘛。。。嘎嘎，

zhai9527

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